Monthly Archives: June 2008

Pamoyo

Creative and ethical fashion label

Pamoyo is a new ethical fashion label, which invites designers to join their mission and enrich the offerings with their creations.

So, a new label which is ethical and creative! I think, very interesting!

Gr. Josselin

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Plastic-bag-free-zone

There will be another plastic-bag-free-zone in England. Kew is the second city in this country. 50 shops decided to give biological bags (biologically degradable or organic cotton) in their shops.

Take a look at the website:

http://www.treehugger.com/files/2008/06/another-village-goes-plastic-bag-free.php

 

Fashionable Fishmates

This summer, the organization Greenpeace, will release rubber boorts with prints of the ocean. They want to make people aware of the threat of the oceans. The date of release will be the 27th of July 2008.

View the website, to have a look a the new FISHMATES.

Gr. Josselin

 

 

The many uses of Bamboo

 

Written by Reed Sacharoff.

Did you know that cotton is one of the most intensely sprayed crops in the world. Organic cotton doesn’t use the harmful pesticides that regular crops do, but that makes up only a very small fraction of the total cotton produced. After a bit of research, I came discovered that an excellent substitution; Bamboo. It is sustainable, practical, and has many health benefits that naturally develop in its growth.

There is a property in bamboo called “Bamboo Kun.” This makes the fabrics that results from the productions of bamboo naturally anti-microbial. It lasts through dying and washing the fabrics, and help prevent any bacteria or fungus from growing on the fabric. Its a perfect option for those who have sensitive skin, and also helps to reduce body odor. Bamboo fabric even has an inherant UV protection factor that will help to keep your skin safe from the harmful ultra violet light emitted from the sun.

Bamboo, as opposed to cotton, requires no pesticides or fertilizer to grow, and takes in five times the amount of greenhouse gasses.  It can be densely grown and its roots retain water in the watershed, sustaining riverbanks and reducing water pollution. Bamboo also grows at an incredibly quick pace, so it can be harvested many more times than other plants.

Bamboo fabrics can look and drape like silk, but are more practical because you can machine wash them on the gentle cycle and dry them in the drier or on the clothesline. It has many of the qualities sought in “performance” and “easy care” fabrics without the drawbacks of synthetic material and it has many of the fashionable qualities of silk, while being sturdy and vegan. As  Diane von Furstenberg and Oscar de la Renta will attest, Bamboo can translate into high end designs as well. Gucci has also been using bamboo in its natural state in accessorizing its shoes and handbags.

 Diane von Furstenberg 'Huahine' Shirtdress       

Gucci Pop Bamboo Handle Bag      

Bamboo is a great natural alternative to cotton. Its sustainable nature is perfect for the socially-conscious consumer, and it provides many benefits for the buyer. It is known as the plant with 1000 uses, and it is true.  Besides being used as a fabric, bamboo can be used for landscaping and construction, turned into paper, used for drawing and illustrating, in medicine, as musical instruments, and yes, is even edible. 

 bamboo bicycle

One must question why such a versatile plant is used as infrequently as it is. Its elegance and natural beauty can add to any surrounding, and you can feel good in the fact that you are doing something good for the earth by working with it.

Belt flooring

from http://www.sustainablestyle.org/

Beautiful Belt Flooring

This unique flooring made from discarded belts is simply beautiful. It was a find at the ICFF show, from a co-worker of mine. The luxury leather flooring, is a new re-working of vintage leather belts and no two tiles are alike. It’s a glossy and hardwearing surface available by the square meter. It can be used for flooring, table tops, walls and feature areas. Check out the UK company Ting‘s website for more fashion products that are made from found seatbelts and strapping.

 

This is a totally amazing way of recycling old leather into flooring.  I love it.

Costume National Men Spring 2009

http://men.style.com/fashion/collections/S2009MEN/review/CNMEN

 

June 21, 2008

Thirty-six ideas for the future: The name that Ennio Capasa gave his collection was timely to a fault. At a moment when the world is poised for major change, it would be uplifting to think that a fashion collection might offer additional pointers. But when the actual show started, the uplift quickly turned downward. Nothing ultimately wrong with that—Capasa was operating perfectly efficiently within his own frame of reference. Sustainability was one of the points he wanted to make, and he did a great job with recycled fabrics (particularly a silk bamboo and a sheer aluminum). He also wanted to underscore the fact that a modern man would rank global warming alongside looking hot. So he conflated activism and eroticism by layering sheer shirts and outerwear in that recycled aluminum. But Capasa’s heart belongs so completely to the dark glamour of his formative years that he just can’t help himself when it comes to a sequined lapel or shirt placket. The silvery palette of this collection suggested there is now a little moonlight in his night, but I’m still waiting for at least another 32 ideas.

Upcycling fashion: Martin Margiela

Upcycling fashion: Martin Margiela

Upcycling is more than just recycling and can be very artistic. The works of Maison Martin Margiela are an example of artistic garments that are highly exclusive. They are very fashionable and represent the top of the fashion industry.

Over the last 20 years re-using old garments in new creations is a common phenomenon. But to call the haute couture techniques just recycling is a bit of an understatement. The process of up-cycling is more than just use old and raw material. By this kind of re-use the raw material is augmented into an object of higher status than the original object. It is about upgrading used material and making it more desirable than it was at the start.

In the art world the artist Duchamp, with his work the Bicycle Wheel and the Urinal, was leading in the concept of upcycling and a great inspiration, also for fashion. The haute couture garments are just like these objects, remade in such way that they leave the consumer cycle.

Reformulate the basic logic of fashion: making new of the old and create diversity by using unique garments with using existing design and methods. Fashion theorist Barbara Vinken explains:  Every piece that is made according to this method, regardless of how many versions there may be, is a unique piece, because the materials that are used in it are unique. The piece now takes time into itself and will complete the work. It can age like a painting.

The works of Maison Martin Margiela are an example of artistic garments. Margiela’s upcycled garments are highly exclusive and very fashionable and they represent the top of the fashion industry. He bridged the gap between designer fashion and everyday clothes. Who Martin Margiela is as a person remains a mystery. You never see him on pictures and he never gives an interview. His designs are born from one single concept and they are often made from second-hand garments combined in a new way. 

In the late 80’s he caused a breakthrough in the fashion industry with his designs. Unfinished hems, visible seams, short sleeves and ripped fabrics. He made the inside of the clothes the outside, used unusual materials like plastic and jute and he combined strong lines with technical new forms.

After this became clear that Margiela was not against but that he was pro garments. He was for traditional sewing techniques, re-using parts of old garments and making new items. In the designs he made you often see the making process, but his strongest point is that he can make it in such way the clothes are experimental but wearable and flattering.  

Besides this unique way of making clothes, the locations he choose to show his collections are very unusual (the metro and factories). He also came up with a system to structure his different lines, because he never put a tag on his creations. Therefore, he uses a little white piece of fabric and gives it a number to show what line the garment piece is.